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RETURN to FEATURED PROJECTS

Soundproofing a Door
(Super Cost Effectively)

ATTENTION:  You should definitely read the SOUNDPROOFING PRIMER
before attempting this project.

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1.

    door

     First examine your door and take measurements

 

 

 

 

2.

   SD Board

     We will be using sound deadening board available at stores such as Home Depot** or Lowe's**, such as this structural sheathing called Quiet Brace** by Temple-Inland Inc.**

 

 

 

 

3.

 asphalt roofing felt

     And also rolled roofing material.  It took me a lot of research, trial and error to find out that it is the asphalt felt type (non-granulated) roofing material to use for soundproofing.

 

 

 4. 

   cutting SD Board

     After you've measured your door, cut the sound deadening board the same height and width, but if anything, slightly smaller in diameter is probably OK if you are not accurate with your measuring or cutting skills.  But this kind of board cuts really easy and is soft enough to cut by hand tools with little effort.

 

 5.

 

     Now measure two (2) each vinyl fabric sheets available at stores such as Jo-Ann**, sometimes Hobby Lobby** but not as much of a selection.  Both sheets need to be of a larger diameter than than your door.  You will need enough material to cover not just your door and sound deadening board, but also the frame of your door.  You will need additional material toward the left or right depending which side your hinges are on.

    

6.

    

     Look closely, (you may not be able to see it, but there is glue prepared for the sheets of rolled roofing felt you will cut out, and will be glued to one of the two vinyl sheets you previously cut.  I used Loctite** brand Power Grab** exterior heavy duty construction adhesive.  (Whatever kind of glue or adhesive you use, it is IMPORTANT that it is a kind that dries flexible;  Don't use anything that dries hard or crusty for soundproofing).

  7.

  

     I recommend to cut 2 or 3 sheets from your rolled roofing material (layer and glue each).  You can use only one layer of MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) which is better than the rolled roofing material, but extremely more expensive.  The roofing material should overlap your SD Board enough that the space between your door and the door frame will be covered, but do not overlap your previously cut vinyl sheets.

8.

    

     Now prepare your SD board to be glued...

 

 

 

 

 

  9.

     Notice how the roofing material overlaps both sides of the SD Board, and also a little on top and bottom.  But you don't want to get too carried away on the bottom, otherwise it may be too difficult to open and close your door.

 

 

 10.

   

     On the side that will cover your door hinges, cut and glue a strip of fiberglass insulation.  I used R-6.7 but it won't matter too much.  You could probably also use a strip of carpet, but it needs to be flexible enough to round over your door hinges and will be bent easily, as you will be opening and closing your door with this side joined to your door frame on the hinges side.  Make sure that the insulation overlaps the roofing material, but leave enough of your vinyl sheet to be glued on the edge.

 11.

   

     Make sure you have plenty of small clamps and/or clothes pin hangers, and glue your other vinyl sheet previously cut over your SD Board and insulation strip.  Just glue the sheets together on the side which will cover your door hinges for now.

     Later, glue and put pressure on the vinyl to your SD Board.  Then glue all seams and trim any excess of the vinyl sheets.

12.

  

     After you glue the vinyl to your SD Board and glue all the seams....  Mark where your door knob or lock will be, and use a keyhole drill bit just big enough to slip over your knob or lock.

 

 

     (NOTE:) If you are extremely serious about your soundproofing, you can caulk from your door knob or lock to the inner hole;   In any case, you should caulk the inner hole of your cut as a finishing edge.

 

 13.

 

     USE hook and loop fastening tapes such as Velcro** to secure the door cover to your door.  IMPORTANT:  Notice Tape #1; it is taped to the door frame on the other side of the hinges.  All the other tapes are spread in an outlining manner to the door edge.

     WARNING:  Using rigid fasteners such as screws or nails to attach your door cover will nearly nullify your results.  (SEE the SOUNDPROOFING PRIMER)

 

14.
(Click on pic. for a larger image).

     Notice how the cover is sealed over the hinges;  the bottom seam drags on the floor; the top and left seam overlap at least a portion of the door frame.

     Door hinges are excellent transmitters of noise.  This design greatly reduces sound transmission through the hinges as well as covers that crack in which the hinges are on.

 

NOTES:

  • Face the absorbing material (in this case, the SD Board) on the side which will be facing the sound you which to block;  then the barrier material (in this case the roofing material).

  • Idealistically, the cover should be on the side of the door which the sound will be blocked from.  Though this may not be possible or practical if it is exterior outside.

  • You should make the door air tight even before beginning this project.  Put weather stripping foam between the door frame and the door.  Also consider a door sweep on the bottom.

  • For even stronger soundproofing, you can sandwich the layers of roofing material between 2 SD Boards

  • Sound is very tricky.  If you still hear noise coming "through the door," it is probably mostly coming through the door frame and surrounding wall.  Just like when you have 2 stereo speakers placed apart playing mono;  it sounds like it is coming centrally from between them.

  • This design greatly reduces noise, but will not block all noise.  Again, see the SOUNDPROOFING PRIMER.

 

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